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Description. Unlike El Condor this route climbs the lower step of the face, adding a further 200 meters of climbing. The step is climbed via a less-than-vertical face left of the buttress that divides the west and south faces. After six pitches it joins El Condor for two pitches, then moves right to the steep south face. A piton marks the start of the upper part of the route. That first pitch off the ledge is the crux, a series of loose flakes in rather dubious rock that are connected with some mandatory freeclimbing. Above that pitch the route follows a continuous crack system (hand and finger cracks) for much of the way until the Eagle's Nest, where it traverses down and right to join the Sound and the Fury. Of the 25 total pitches (700m altogether) only 13 were new, the rest were along existing routes. Hand taping recomended.
History. The first ascensionists completed the route in alpine style, with one bivy not far from the top. Because of ice, they had to aid climb two short sections. Raúl Martinez, Cintia Percivati and Sean Villanueva did the first free ascent of the route in 2011. Raoul onsighted the crux pitch, grading it 7a+. It was downgraded to 6c (5.11b) in early 2016 when Colin Haley and Alex Honnold completed their 17hs ascent of the Wave Effect Direct (they climbed simuled climbed the route in three pitches).
On the west face of Aguja Guillaumet, Czech Michal Pitelka and German Carsten Von Birckhahn climbed their third new route on the face, an obvious crack system between Padrijo and Rayo de Luz. Just to the left, between Padrijo and Disfrute la Vida, Americans Blake Herrington and Scott Bennett climbed a new route that they called Las Venturas. On the nearby Aguja Mermoz, Herrington and Bennett did the first free ascent of Cosas Patagonicas (5.11).
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On the South face of the Maiden, the routes trending from left (uphill) to right (downhill) are: 1. Gates of Galas (5.10d R/X trad); 2. A few yards east and downhill is Gates of Delirium (5.11c sport); 3. Maiden Voyage (5.12b sport), starts above the Crows Nest; 4. The subject route (Vamos Las Chicas) proposal, 5. 13 Sport; 5. Kor-Dalke, starts just a bit right of Vamos Las Chicas, trad Aid (A3) or free at 5.12 R; 6. Hasta La Hueco, 3 pitches, 5.13b sport; 7. South Face, 5.8R trad, 3 pitches; 8. Belladonna, 5.11a X trad: 5.9. Southern Seas, 5.11b trad top rope; 10. Heart of the Sunrise, 2 pitches, 5.11a sport; 11. South Crack, 5.11b/c trad
Beware of Nesting Egos, Elephant Rock With three well-spaced bolts in nearly 100 feet, supplemented by trad pro, this 5.11b classic requires serious skills and steady nerves. A finger crack, wild traverses, and some runout face climbing pack what feels like a full day of climbing into a half-rope length.
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